Acne - The Story

Common acne (acne vulgaris) is an inflammatory condition occurring in the pores of the skin, especially those containing hair follicles and oil producing glands (sebaceous glands). Acne usually begins around puberty when boys and girls have increased androgen hormones (testosterone).

At puberty, both sexes produce androgen (testosterone) which stimulates the activity and size of the oil-producing sebaceous glands of the pores of your skin. These glands produce an oily substance (sebum) which should flow normally to the surface of the skin. Acne begins when the follicle becomes plugged - the skin cells which normally shed through the pores become sticky and mix with the sebum (oil) to form an invisible plug called a microcomedone. Within a short time, bacteria multiply rapidly in the plugged pore causing redness and swelling, transition into comedones (whiteheads and blackheads) and then into pimples (pustule). If left untreated, the process extends deeper into the tissue and involves more of the skin surrounding the follicle, creating a painful nodule. Several nodules can merge eventually forming cysts. Scarring can occur once the bacterial inflammation begins.

Most adolescents and teenagers experience some form of acne. It is estimated that 80-90% of people between the ages of 11 and 30 suffer with some stage of acne. Even older adults, mostly women, can develop acne for the first time after age 30, which can be related to hormone changes during their menstrual cycle, pregnancy/childbirth, oral contraceptives and menopause.

Four Stages of Acne

Depending on the type and number of lesions determine the specific stage.

• Emerging Acne
• Mild Acne
• Moderate Acne
• Severe Acne

 

Acne Progression Detail

• Whitehead
• Blackhead
• Pimple
• Pustules

 

Controlling Acne

• Topical Acne Treatment
• Lifestyle Changes
• Doctor Prescription / Treatments
• Combination of all these Topical Acne Treatment

Suggested Daily Regimen

Four Stages of Acne

Emerging Acne Emerging Acne is the earliest stage and it usually begins before puberty or teenage years. Usually an oily complexion is associated with emerging acne and this is usually first seen in the T-zone, especially around the nose. These microcomedones are commonly found on the forehead, sides of the nose and chin area.

 

Mild Acne Mild Acne consists of microcomedones, open comedones (whiteheads) and closed comedones (blackheads). In this stage, lesions begin to appear over the entire forehead especially along the hair line, the mouth and perinasal areas and the chin, as these areas comprise the highest concentration of active sebaceous follicles. In addition to the T-zone on the face, mild acne can involve the upper shoulder and chest areas. The surface oils again are quite noticeable, however, there is no inflammation or infection and scarring is unlikely to occur.

 

Moderate Acne Moderate Acne occurs when inflammation and infection develop, causing the appearance of infected and inflamed papules and pustules (blemishes, zits). These lesions can be painful, are unsightly, and may lead to scarring even if they are not picked. The chest, shoulders and back can once again be an area of major concern along with the face and neck.

 

Severe Acne Severe Acne is the final and most severe state of acne. In addition to blackheads, whiteheads, papules and pustules, large modules or cysts can develop. The infection and inflammation is usually so severe that deep scarring will usually develop, especially if this is left untreated.

Acne Progression Detail

Whiteheads Whiteheads or closed comedones occur when dead skin cells block the opening of the pore, preventing the secretion of sebum from the oil gland, causing bulging of the follicle. These appear as flesh colored bumps on the skin and usually are first noticed in the T-zone involving the forehead, nose and chin.

 

Blackheads Blackheads or open comedones occur if the pore stays slightly open, while the contents of the pores (sebum and dead skin cells) become oxidized and darken.

 

Pimples Pimples, papules or blemishes occur when certain normal bacteria multiply within the clogged pores. As your body’s immune system tries to clear the clogged pore, inflammation and infection occur, along with swelling and redness.

 

Pustules Pustules develop when the hair follicle or pore weakens and finally ruptures. These lesions are painful and can cause scarring. These lesions appear as red blemishes with a whitish tip filled with pus. Cystic or nodulocystic acne is the most serious form of the disease and occurs when the body’s immune response is excessive, resulting in the development of boil-like lesions.

Topical Acne Treatment

The early stages of acne can be improved and controlled with a topical skin care system. Topical applications work very well at maintaining and helping to prevent further breakouts. If acne persists for more than 45 days or advances beyond early stages, see a doctor for further treatment.

You want to have a Topical Acne Treatment system with 4 main purposes:

• Kill the harmful bacteria on the skin
• Speed up the rate at which skin cells are shed by exfoliation
• Help open plugged pores.
• Reduce the production of Sebum

Beta-Hydroxy Foaming Cream Cleanser

Benefits

Salicyclic Acid (1%): FDA Approved Reduces corneum thickening Helps open plugged pores Exfoliates surface cells Lactic Acid: Binds moisture to the skin Exfoliates surface cells Improves texture and pliability of the corneum layer Phospholipids: Softens the skin Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C): Anti-Oxidant Brightens the skin Increases Sunscreen Effectiveness Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A): Conditions the skin Encourages cell renewal Improves water barrier properties

Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E): Free radical scavenger Photo-protecting Water-binding Chamomile Extract: Anti-inflammatory Natural antiseptic Willow Bark Extract: Antiseptic

Acne Cleanser

Benefits

Salicyclic Acid (1%): FDA Approved Reduces corneum thickening Helps open plugged pores Exfoliates surface cells Lactic Acid: Binds moisture to the skin Exfoliates surface cells Improves texture and pliability of the corneum layer Phospholipids: Softens the skin Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C): Anti-Oxidant Brightens the skin Increases Sunscreen Effectiveness Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A): Conditions the skin Encourages cell renewal Improves water barrier properties

2 Step Exfoliating Facial System

Benefits

Step 1 Multi-fruit complex: Naturally occurring AHA's containing cellulose, carbohydrates, proteins and water soluble vitamins and minerals. 2% Salicyclic Acid: Approved by the FDA for effectively treating acne Reduces corneum thickening Exfoliates surface cells Helps open plugged pores Green Tea Extract: Anti-oxidant (catechins) Anti-inflammatory Helps repair photo damage Ascorbic Acid: Anti-oxidant Increases Sunscreen effectiveness Brightens the skin Destroys free-radicals

Step 2 Green Tea Extract: Anti-oxidant (catechins) Anti-inflammatory Helps repair photo damage Bisabolol: Anti-inflammatory agent Derived from chamomile and or yarrow Retinol Palmitate (Vitamin A): Skin conditioning Encourages cell renewal Improves water barrier properties

Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): Free Radical Scavenger Photo-Protecting Water-Binding Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C): Anti Oxidant Increases Sunscreen Effectiveness Brightens the skin

Acne Relief Gel

Benefits

Glycolic Acid (10%): Increases epithelial turnover Anti-bacterial Reduces stratum corneum thickening Improves hydration Lactic Acid (2%): Binds moisture to the skin Exfoliates surface cells Improves texture and pliability of the corneum layer Salicyclic Acid (1%): Approved by the FDA for effectively treating acne Reduces corneum thickening Exfoliates surface cells Helps open plugged pores

100% Pure Hyaluronic Acid

Benefits

One of the most water loving molecules Binds up to 1,000 times it’s weight in water Body’s natural moisturizer Plumps up the skin Rehydrates skin

Lifestyle

The dermAstage system has been specially formulated to work externally to manage your breakouts by performing the following functions:

• increasing the shedding of skin cells
• clearing congestion within the follicle
• killing harmful and excessive bacteria
• controlling oil secretion

dermAstage products are also made with effective antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial agents proven to help control the early and moderate phases of acne.

As you benefit from the dermAstage products which work from the skin’s surface (from the outside), these suggestions work on the inside to fight the inflammation which triggers the acne process in the first place.

Stress - Acne very commonly flares at the worst of times (i.e. before your first date, job interview, wedding, etc.) because of the added stress this presents in your life. Stress releases a hormone called cortisol, which not only raises your blood sugar but acts as an androgen, which further stimulates your oil and sweat glands. Other factors which increase this stress hormone are: lack of sleep, drinking coffee (decaf or regular) and increased physical exertion.

Sugar - Inflammation Acne Connection - Eating carbohydrate foods that are rapidly converted to sugar (breads, cereal, candy, cakes, cookies, snack foods, pasta, soda, french fries, ice cream, etc.) causes a dramatic rise in blood sugar which triggers a spike of insulin in your blood. The surge of insulin triggers the body to create an inflammatory response which makes acne worse. A diet of good quality protein, with fresh fruits and vegetable and good fats from nuts, avocados and olive oil is beneficial to the skin.

Vitamins/supplements - Adolescents and teens are going through a growth spurt that requires plenty of nutrients to keep their bodies and skin healthy. Even the most balanced diet still falls short of what’s needed for healthy skin at this stage. Vitamins and supplements supply powerful anti-oxidants which are potent remedies for the inflammation which fuels acne breakouts.

Lifestyle Changes

Get Healthy - Get Great Skin

• Eat good quality protein (eggs, chicken, fish, soy) at every meal, with fresh fruits and vegetables and good fats such as those found in nuts, avocados and olive oil.
• Get seven to eight hours of sleep every night
• Take vitamins/supplements
• Exercise in moderation and monitor your stress levels.

Consider:

• Switching from coffee (decaf/regular), soda, fruit juice to tea and water
• Limiting excess alcohol and tobacco
• Carefully monitoring your carbohydrates (sugary/starchy foods)
• Keeping your hands away from your face
• Monitoring your facial cleansing. Excess face washing can dry the skin and stimulate more oil production

Doctor Procedures

Technology has become an important addition to oral and topical treatments for acne. Your doctor may prescribe a combination (combination of all acne control factors or series of treatments depending on your individual response to these therapies and your personal considerations.

Vitamin A prescriptions (Retin-AR, DifferinR, TazoracR) - promote healthy cleansing of skin cells and loosen pore clogging material.

AccutaneR - Also derived form Vitamin A, this powerful medication is extremely effective for cystic or nodular acne. This medication requires close supervision by your doctor.

Antibiotics - Can be used topically or orally to kill bacteria and reduce the pain and inflammation associated with acne.

Oral contraceptives - Especially when acne flare-ups correspond with the menstrual period, these medications help regulate hormone levels.

Blue Light treatments - A low intensity blue light source is used to target the component of the bacteria in the skin which causes acne. A series of 15 minute treatments twice a week for four to six weeks can be beneficial for the treatment of mild to moderate inflammatory acne.

Laser treatments - Lasers penetrate the skin without causing damage and heat the tissues in and around the sebaceous glands, decreasing their size and reducing oil production. A series of treatments can result in considerable clearing for many months. Further, non-ablative lasers also stimulate new collagen formation and have been shown to reduce mild residual scarring from acne at the same time.

Radiofrequency & other heat treatments - Devices such as ThermageR and hand-held ZenoR units heat up the skin thereby reducing bacteria and causing shrinkage in oil-producing glands.

Teen Suggested Daily Use

Emerging Acne AM Beta Hydroxy Foaming Cream Cleanser Exfoliating Facial System Acne Gel (In affected area or spot) SPF 15 Day Cream PM Beta Hydroxy Foaming Cream Cleanser Acne Gel (In affected area or spot)		Mild Acne AM Beta Hydroxy Foaming Cream Cleanser SPF 15 Day Cream Acne Gel (In affected area or spot) PM Acne Cleanser Exfoliating Facial System Pure Hyaluronic Acid (T-Zone) Acne Gel (In affected area or spot)
Moderate Acne AM Acne Cleanser (Benzoyl Peroxide) SPF 15 Day Cream Acne Gel (In affected area or spot) PM Acne Cleanser (Benzoyl Peroxide) Exfoliating Facial System Pure Hyaluronic Acid Acne Gel (In affected area or spot)		Severe Acne See Dermatologist

If Acne persists contact your dermatologist.